Beretta

Once upon a time I owned a 1994 Beretta Z26.  It was my first car in 1998 at he ripe age of 16.  By 2007 I had spliced, welded, and dinged the car enough that it was time to get rid of it.  There is still a cardomain page setup for it which I haven’t touched since about 2003.

Chevrolet Beretta Z26 - NASCAR edition

The Z26 at a Berettafest (thats a real event)

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/357142/1994-chevrolet-beretta

The only big thing not mentioned on that page is that I built, installed and tuned a V3 Megasquirt stand alone engine controller.  After a few years of working out the kinks the car was respectably fast.  Launching never went well for me with the wheel hop, but second and third gear were a riot.  I never had it dynoed and I never took it to the dragstrip after it was in its best shape.  I did have several rolling races with a friends SRT-4 Neon with a stage 2 kit running 100 octane (300hp). Here is a clip of how that went if I started in 3rd gear at about 30/35mph:

      

The quick list of modifications are:

  • 3.4 V6, pushrod, year 2000
  • Getrag 282 5 speed manual swap with Spec stage 3 clutch
  • Custom EATON M90 supercharger setup
  • Tight suspension with poly everything
  • Lost about 200 lbs

How to make your own M90 intake for a 60 degree V6 GM engine, with minimal details:

  • Get a spare upper intake.
  • Clean it.
  • Get an aluminum plate that is at least 1/2″ thick and slightly bigger than the bottom of the M90 bolts corner to corner.
  • You want to start a little thicker than you think you need because you want good depth for the thread tapping and you might need more material to mill off if you have issues welding it down.
  • Deck/Mill the top of the intake so it is smooth enough to set the plate on and be level, but leave as much material as possible.
  • This might also be a good time to cut off the throttle body opening and EGR and seal them up if you plan to do that.
  • Install the intake on the engine.
  • Set the plate on top.
  • Set the M90 on top of the plate.
  • Line up the pulley with the belt, I was creative with some string and a small level. Yes it worked out in the end.
  • Mark out where the plate should be welded to the new intake and still leave room to bolt the M90 to it.
  • Take everything off and weld the plate to the intake in the location you marked – YOU DO NOT NEED TO WELD THE WHOLE OUTSIDE PERIMETER! This weld is only structural, not to seal up the air flow so don’t go crazy or it will take forever.
  • Deck/mill the top of the plate after you are done sealing/welding the plate to the intake (it will shift and warp slightly during welding so this is what you want to correct).
  • Install the new intake and plate back on the engine.
  • Set the M90 back on top of the plate and line up the pulley with the belt again.
  • Trace out the location of the M90.
  • Take the intake off the engine.
  • Drill and tap threads for all the bolts, cut out the opening for the outlet of the blower (use a new gasket for the M90 as a template).
  • At the opening for the outlet of the blower where the plate meets the intake, weld that air tight.  Your welding matters more here.
  • Done… ?

If you don’t know what milling or decking is as you read this, then you probably don’t want to try it alone. Welding solid aluminum to cast aluminum is not the easiest welding. I actually had a co-worker do the welding.  My excuse is that I was 18 and uninsured to use the machine at work 🙂

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